Most desert tree roots are within the top two feet of the soil and extend out 1.5 to 4 times the width of the canopy. Recent arboriculture research has called into question many historically held assumptions about the proper techniques for planting landscape trees. The practice of digging deep, oversized holes relative to the size of the root-ball is giving way to the "Tipton" Method. This method recommends digging the planting hole to a depth equal to the height of the box then fracturing or tilling the soil 3 to 5 times the width of the box. Not all landscape sites or planting locations easily lend themselves to tilling the soil 3 to 5 times the width of the box. In these locations maximum benefit can still be derived from fracturing the soil as wide as the location allows. These methods will help encourage rapid, vigorous root growth into the disturbed soil and promote tree establishment.

Proper planting depth is critical for the long term health and viability of trees. As with all trees, desert species should be planted so that the root flare (also called the crown) is above the finished landscape grade following transplanting. Planting too deep has three detrimental effects on trees: 1) soil surrounding the lower trunk (crown) holds moisture against the trunk and can lead to decay and disease, 2) irrigation water must penetrate a deeper profile of soil to reach active roots, increasing the likelihood of over watering and water stress and 3) the exchange of soil gases, especially oxygen is inhibited . Even trees like Native Mesquites and Desert Willows that are native to riparian areas and, in the natural setting, have trunks partially buried by periodic flooding, do not tolerate deep planting in the landscape. This is due to the repeated wetting of trunk tissue by frequent, automated irrigation as opposed to the sporadic flooding trees experience in nature.

The advantage of the "Tipton" Method is that the bottom of the planting container is placed on undisturbed soil. When the hole is dug to the proper depth, the tree is less likely to subside or settle, leaving the crown below the soil line. Where organic or rock mulches are used consider planting trees slightly above grade and sloping the mulch away from the trunk. It is counter productive to initially plant the tree at the correct grade only to bury the crown later with mulch.

Do not remove the bottom of the box when transplanting. The box bottom will not inhibit rooting or establishment. Attempts to remove the bottom can cause severe root ball damage.

Maintaining trees at the proper planting depth is not a concern limited to transplanting. Crowns can also become buried as a result of planting activities around the base of a trees (color shrubs, seasonal plants, ground covers), changes in site grading, improper site drainage or with the addition of hardscape elements. Landscape professionals should recognize the potentially detrimental effect of these kinds of activities on the crown and the long term health of the tree.

PRUNING: Pruning always has some adverse effects on trees and should be evaluated from the prospective of its impact on the tree’s growth and vigor. Pruning immediately following planting can delay or prevent successful establishment of transplanted trees. Studies on desert species, like Blue Palo Verde, suggest that as much as 60% of all photosynthesis occurs on the surface of young branches. Removing branches serves to limit the total surface area available for photosynthesis, lowering the plants capacity to manufacture "food". It also reduces the total amount of stored carbohydrates (particularly with trees transplanted while dormant) and results in less vigorous growth.