Tree failure in high winds
(wind throw) can have devastating consequences to the tree,
surrounding property and pedestrians. While high winds are
commonly associated with tree failure, trees can fall in the
absence of winds in certain conditions. The two primary factors
contributing to wind throw are root failure and soil failure. In
some in-stances both factors are involved. Inspecting the trees
after they have fallen can provide clues as to why the tree
failed and what conditions were most responsible. Understanding
why the tree fell is critical in developing a strategy for
successfully replacing or re-planting.
Soils fail when they lack
the strength to keep the roots and subsequently the tree
anchored. Examining trees that fail in this way reveals large
amounts of soil adhering to the root mass and mostly roots 1
inch and smaller are broken. Environmental factors that
compromise soil strength include saturated or waterlogged
conditions (the results of heavy rains, excessive irrigation or
both) as would a high water table that restricts down-ward and
lateral root growth. During our summer monsoons, wind throw risk
increases with the combination of heavy rain and strong winds
coupled with typical summer irrigation schedules. Physical
characteristics like hard pans or caliche, soil compaction (as a
result of site construction traffic or natural conditions), thin
or shallow soils (either naturally thin or made thin by site
grading) or a rocky layer further reduce the ability of soils to
effectively anchor tree roots. Horticultural practices also play
a role, particularly when trees are planted too deep or if trees
are root-bound when transplanted or have genetically defective
root systems. Topsoil erosion, the result of incorrect site
drainage, can reduce the volume of soil anchoring the tree and
also contribute to wind throw.
Root failure is commonly
associated with root decay or damage to the root sys-tem. The
root mass of trees felled by root failure show broken large
diameter roots or fractures that originate in the roots and
extend into the wood of the lower trunk. Break-age is usually
associated with root decay that may not be visible in the above
ground portions of the tree. In very advanced states of decay,
fruiting structures of the fungi that causes the rot will appear
along the trunks and branches or mushrooms may grow out of
exposed roots. Trees in this state are highly unstable and
potentially dangerous. Root damage can also have mechanical
causes like with the additions of hardscape elements around
established trees, construction vehicle traffic or trenching and
digging through the root ball to install plumbing, sewer or
irrigation pipes.
Tree growth is a dynamic
process that, in vigorous trees, proceeds geometrically. For
example, if a tree doubled its mass in a single season the
change when the tree is relatively small would not be
significant (initial mass 100 lbs grows to 200 lbs). But as
trees begin to mature the demands on roots amplify (initial mass
1000 lbs increases to 2000 lbs), at the same time the tree
increases in physical size, offering increased resistance to
winds. Except in the event of extreme winds, deficiencies in
roots and rooting may not appear in smaller or immature trees
and are only revealed when soil or root strength limits have
been exceeded by the forces of wind or the mass of the tree.
It is unlikely that mature
trees that have partially or completely blow over can be righted
and staked in the hope they will remain viable. Appreciate that
the soil and rooting conditions of mature trees that led to the
blow over can rarely be corrected by righting and staking,
making future failures inevitable. There is usually significant
root damage that may, by itself, prove ultimately fatal to the
tree. The other problem is subsidence, where new, disturbed soil
accumulates beneath where the root-ball had been making it
nearly impossible to bring the trees back to it original upright
position. Younger trees can, in some instances, be righted and
survive provided the soil conditions can be improved, the
irrigation system can be modified to better distribute water to
the roots and trees are pruned to correct imbalances with the
roots.
The financial consequences
of maturing and mature tree failure (property damage, personal
injury, loss of the tree and its landscape value) make the
expenses associated with proper planting technique (Tipton
Method) and soil preparation at installation essential and very
cost effective.
Reduce the Risk of Wind
Throw
-
Avoid layering of
different soil types. (topsoil layered atop of rock or
caliche.)
-
Use the Tipton
Planting Method by digging a shallow and broad planting
hole
-
Design an irrigation
system that encourages progressive radial distribution of
roots as trees mature.
-
Promote a well
distributed root systems by establishing irrigation
schedules that take into account soil type and water
penetration.
-
Prune no more than 20%
percent to open canopy, keeping top growth and foliage in
proportion to root mass.
-
Where possible careful
schedule mature tree irrigations in anticipation of summer
monsoon storms, ideally avoiding highly saturated soils
prior to the arrival of a storm. This is accomplished with
an irrigation system that allows separate water scheduling
for trees and shrubs. For April thru July manually irrigate
trees 4 to 8 hours once a month (depending on the GPH, water
distribution and species of tree).
-
Selection of tree
stock from reputable nursery.
-
Score root-ball sides
at installation.
-
Fence construction
traffic away from trees.
-
Irrigation schedules
should allow soil and roots to drain and dry slightly before
water is reapplied.